FROM GHOST TOWN TO THE NATIONAL HISTORIC REGISTER

Not much more than 20 years ago, Deadwood, named for the burned trees that the miners found in the area when they came in search of gold, was a ghost town. During the interim, the townspeople of Deadwood made a decision to bring gambling to their town and in doing so were able to restore historic saloons, hotels, and other landmarks. Today the entire city is listed on the National Historic Register. Once a runner sends in the application, the DMTM Web master wastes no time getting and staying in touch. Frequent e-mail updates keep the runner well informed and familiarize the runner with the area, including places to stay. By the time we arrived in Deadwood, I felt right at home. One of the high points of the weekend was the Friday evening get-together in Rapid City with Billy Mills and Jeff Galloway, both of whom were captivating but in very different ways. If you’re ever presented with an opportunity to hear Billy Mills speak, don’t miss it. He’s not only an Olympic legend, he is also a

30 l MARATHON & BEYOND l MAY/JUNE 2005 Courtesy of Nancy Griffith Author Nancy Griffith with Olympic legend Billy Mills (center) and her husband, Tom Burr (left).

phenomenal storyteller and motivator. I was in tears as he described his childhood; I was moved as he expressed the manner in which his father passed on spiritual teachings; I was sitting on the edge of my seat as he showed the video of his 1964 Olympic win; I was mesmerized as he described his emotions during each step of that unbelievable race; and I left the auditorium visualizing an astonishing personal finish for myself on Sunday. On Saturday, while picking up our race packets at the Deadwood Pavilion, we admired the work of Joe Langer, the local artist who (along with his wife and four of their grandchildren) produced the marathon and half-marathon finisher medals. Made of Black Hills alabaster, a white stone with reddish streaks, each one is slightly different. On each medal’s face is a running caricature etching of Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane, certainly two of Deadwood’s most notorious citizens. The medals are stunning, and at first glance, I thought they must be a commemorative piece you could purchase. Imagine my excitement when I discovered they were the real thing. This alone would be incentive to finish the race.

BOOZE, GUNS, AND THE WILD WEST Main Street in Deadwood is approximately one mile. Its ambiance transports you to a time and place where booze, guns, and the Wild West ruled. Modernday Deadwood is still booze, gambling, and steak, not necessarily in that order. If you’re a vegan, be prepared to bring your own food. I was happy to see that Starbucks Coffee is beginning to make its appearance in Deadwood.

NANCY GRIFFITH l DUEL AT DEADWOOD l 31 Motivational speaker and

coach–guru Jeff Galloway during his prerace presentation.

Visiting the Adams Museum in Deadwood made me realize how fortunate I am to be a woman in today’s world. In reading the 1915 “Rules for Teachers,” I noted that they • were not allowed to keep company with men; • were discouraged from loitering

Kevin Smith downtown in ice cream stores; • were prohibited from dressing in bright colors; • were required to wear at least two petticoats; and • were not allowed to ride in a carriage or automobile with any man unless he was a brother or father. Without a doubt, they would not have been running the marathon, and not because they weren’t capable! Also of interest to me was Blanche Coleman, who became the first woman authorized to practice law in South Dakota. She lived in the Franklin Hotel and was a devout member of the Jewish faith. Florence Stanford, who graduated from Boston Medical College in 1879, moved to Deadwood in 1888. She was the first and until recently the only female doctor in Deadwood. There were women of every race and religion in those early days. I found the details of their lives most intriguing.

PAHA SAPA Driving through Custer State Park, we were delighted to be delayed by a herd of several hundred bison running down through a draw, the caramel-colored calves kicking up their heels as they ran. Bison evolved with expansive shoulders, perfect for plowing through winter snows in search of food buried deep below. Later,

32 l MARATHON & BEYOND l MAY/JUNE 2005 Kevin Smith Racers wend their way along Deadwood’s majestic, beautiful, and serene course.

while touching a beautifully tanned bison hide at Prairie Edge Gallery in Rapid City, we could see, feel, and understand why tatanka were key to the Indian way of life and survival. Bison provided much-needed food as well as enduring warmth in a harsh environment where staying warm was vital to staying alive. Few people take the time to realize the drama and tragedy that have made their mark on the Black Hills. This is a land that was and is sacred to the Indians. They consider the Black Hills (Paha Sapa) to be the birthplace of their spiritual universe. From these hills the Indians draw strength, courage, and inspiration. The ultimate is not to win, but to reach within the depths of your capabilities and to compete against yourself to the greatest extent possible. When you do that, you have dignity. You have pride. You can walk about with character and pride no matter in what place you happen to finish. —Billy Mills The DMTM is one of the most well-organized races we’ve ever encountered, thanks to Jerry Dunn and his incredible staff of volunteers. At 5:00 A.M. sharp on race-day morning, buses picked up the runners just outside of our hotel. Forty-five minutes later, we were delivered to the starting line in Rochford. As the sun rose, so did the temperature. By 10:00 A.M., it had reached the mid-80s. The starting line in Rochford has an elevation of 5,305 feet. It’s hard to imagine that in 1878, this spot on the map was a town with 100 log cabins, three

NANCY GRIFFITH l DUEL AT DEADWOOD l 33 saloons, six stores, two hotels, a drugstore, a butcher shop, and a barber shop. By contrast, in 1881, it was all but deserted, its citizens having gone elsewhere in search of gold. During the first half of the race, the trail consistently wound its way to 6,200 feet. Although it appeared harmless, the combination of subtle uphill, elevation, and heat was challenging. The race volunteers provided aid approximately every two miles, but unless you are a sub-three-hour trail marathoner (and there was only one in this race), I would recommend carrying at least a handheld bottle, especially in hot weather. The racecourse is unbelievably majestic, beautiful, and serene, at times passing through meadows of wild irises and spiderwort, at other times through immense pastureland or deep canyons. Because of the numerous mountain streams, the course included 30 bridges and one tunnel. Beavers are not uncommon in the Black Hills, and in many locations just off the course, their dam-building talents were apparent. Just before mile 13 of the race, located at 6,200 feet is the Dumont Trailhead, named after an early French settler. This spot was once a lumber town and included a railroad section house that was a shipping point for cattle. Farther along, we ran through what was once Englewood, a settlement established originally as Ten-Mile Ranch, a stagecoach stop in the late 1870s. Its name was later changed to Englewood when the Burlington Railroad arrived on its way to Deadwood in 1890. Local historians claim a man named Mr. Kelly operated a still at Ten-Mile Ranch, which allegedly kept Deadwood supplied with tax-free whiskey.

ROUGHLOCKING The second half of the race is downhill, with the exception of one uphill at approximately mile 18. During the gold rush, many of these canyon trails were so steep that the only way to traverse them was by “roughlocking.” The drivers would roughlock the wheels of their wagons with logs or chains to prevent them from turning, hitch the horses to the rear, and slowly skid down the slope. Breakneck Gulch got its name from a roughlocking accident that occurred under such circumstances. Kevin Smith

The Deadwood course includes

34 l MARATHON & BEYOND l MAY/JUNE 2005 THEY SHALL MOUNT UP WITH WINGS AS EAGLES. —ISAIAH 40:31 At mile 19, deep in the canyon the temperature was close to 100. Looking up into the sky, our eyes were drawn to an eagle, soaring high above. I couldn’t help but think of my dad. Last summer he made a special card for Tom just prior to the Vermont 100 Endurance Run. As inspiration, he quoted Isaiah 40:31: “But they that wait upon the Lord shall renew their strength; they shall mount up with wings as eagles; they shall run, and not be weary; and they shall walk, and not faint.” Six weeks after our marriage in Vermont and Tom’s successful finish of the 100-mile race, my father died suddenly. As I remembered him, I gave thanks for the virtues of patience and perseverance that he and my mom had instilled in me. Always adventurous and not prone to giving up easily, my mom is very proud of my marathon finishes.

GOD HAS GIVEN ME THE ABILITY. THE REST IS UP TO ME.

BELIEVE. BELIEVE. BELIEVE.—BILLY MILLS Under a scorching sun, Tom and I rounded the corner into town and onto Sherman Street, making our way toward Deadwood’s Main Street and the finish line in front of the Bullock Hotel where employees and patrons have reported seeing the ghost of Seth Bullock, Deadwood’s first sheriff. Closed to traffic on race day, Main Street provided an inspiring finish line with its cobblestone street, historic buildings, and ample spectator cheering. The flashing thermometer read 93 degrees. As the race official placed that gorgeous alabaster marathon medal around my neck, I gave thanks Kevin Smith

for my finish and began to contemplate The homestretch is along Deadwood’s historic Main Street. next year’s race.

36 l MARATHON & BEYOND l MAY/JUNE 2005